Mera Peak Climbing
A journey shaped by the landscapes, people and experiences of Nepal.
Offered by Nepal Alternative Treks & Expeditions Pvt. Ltd.
NEPAL · TRAVEL EXPERIENCES
Discover the journey
Mera Peak Climbing The bulk of Mera, officially the highest of Nepal's permitted trekking peaks, rise to the south of Everest and dominates the watershed between the wild and heavily woded valleys of the Hinku and Hongu Drangkas . Mera (Peak) is a chance to venture into a little visited and as yet unspoilt region of Nepal where the hillsides are still densely forested and a need to be self-sufficient is essential. There is also, of course, the pleasure of going above 21,000 feet.・Both the Hongu and Hinku valleys remain uninhabited although there are Kharka in the Upper Hinku basin where Sherpa from the South, near Pangkongma, graze their animals during the grass- growing monsoon. The upper Hongu Basin is truly a mountain wilderness, a place of massive moraines, glacial lakes and spectacular peaks that include Charmlang and Baruntse. Additionally, it offers some of the most spectacular mountain scenery, pristine forest, and high altitude climbing in the world. We start this climb with a hair-raising flight into the small town of Lukla at 2,800 m (9,184 ft). From there it is a six-day trek, with plenty of acclimatization days to keep us healthy at our ever-increasing altitude, through some of Nepal's most pristine Rhododendron, oak, silver fir and birch forests, past beautiful alpine lakes, and finally up to the foot of Mera Glacier where well establish base camp. We will set up two more high camps, the first over 300 m above B.C. on the Mera Glacier, and the second after we cross the Mera crevasse field at 5,800 m. From here it is a steady and steep climb to reach the summit, with awe-inspiring views of Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east, Everest and Lhotse to the north, and Ama Dablam and Cho Oyu to the west.
The memorable moments
Summit Mera Peak, at 6476m, the highest trekking peak in Nepal Striking views of the Himalayan including Lhotse, Makalu, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, and Kangchenjunga.
Journey at a glance
Day 16 Days: Mear Peak Climbing — Suggested Itinerary Day 1: Fly to Lukla and trek to Chutanga ( 3450m./1320ft.) 4 hours walk This morning you will be transferred to domestic airport and fly to Lukla (2,800m/9,186ft). It takes 40 minutes scenic flight up to small airstrip to Tenjin-Hillary airport to Lukla and experience your first breakfasts in the mountains whilst the Nepal alternative team organizes porters, while the guide sort and divide the load baggage to be carried by porters. We start our trek further an easy day through the woodland above Lukla. A good trail leads through pasture to the edge of a diminishing forest of rhododendron and pine which clothes the steep hillsides above Lukla. We make steady progress on a good trail, crossing ridges and streams up to kharka used for grazing yaks. We reach Chutanga and stay there overnight at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 2: Acclimatization dayThis morning after a breakfast at the camp we will have full day leisure at camp or spend a day walking up to a small grassy peak below the Zatra Teng Pass reaching an altitude of (4000m/13,120ft). There are excellent views out over the valley of the Dudh (milk) Kosi (river), and also views of our route towards the Zatrwa La. We stroll back to Chutanga for the overnight at same lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 3: Chutang-Tuli Kharka via Zatrwa La pass ( 4250m./13944ft.) 6 hours walkAfter a rest/acclimatization day at Chutanga we continue a long day walk crossing the Kalo Himal Ridge that separates the Khumbu from the Hinku valley that lead across this ridge is the Zatrwa La (4,600m/15,093ft), traversing to the right and finally descending steeply to Tuli Kharka (big pasture) where there are several basic lodges. We stay overnight at lodge . Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 4: Tuli Kharka- Gothey ( 3600m./11821ft.) 5 hours walkToday, after a breakfast we continue our journey descending to Hinku valley of Gothey . You can visit the local people and watch the local lifestyle in the remaining time and we will stay near by the teashops and stay overnight there at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 5: Gothey-Thagnag ( 4350m./14272ft.) 5 hours walkThe following day is another short day as you trek in the shadow of Mera Himal along the ridge of the Hinku Khola. The west bank of the Hinku Drangka northwards, we will take lunch at Gondishung, a summer herders settlement. Beyond Gondishung we pass a 200 year-old Gompa built beneath a massive boulder, to burn some juniper at the shrine, an offering that just might ensure a successful ascent of Mera Peak. Thagnag is a summer grazing area with the simplest of lodges and shops starting to develop. We stay there overnight at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 6: Acclimatization day Another an acclimatization day is essential here. It is in a superb setting surrounded by stunning peaks. There is a huge moraine in the north of Tangnag where a beautiful glacial lake, Sabal Tsho is dammed which is definitely worth a visit. A cairn (5,270m/17,290ft) on the flanks of Kusum Kangguru can also be rewarding and beneficial for acclimatization. Stay at same lodge overnight. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 7: Thagnag-Khare ( 5025m./16486ft.) 3 hours walkToday, we are heading up from Tagnag towards the Mera Base camp at Khare. We follow the lateral moraine of Dig Glacier to Dig Kharka, which offers spectacular views of Charpate Himal. The trail climbs through moraines and to the snout of the Hinku Nup and Shar Glaciers and then climbs more steeply to Khare. Stay there overnight at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 8: Ice climbing practice near KhareThis morning after a breakfast, we prepare our gear for ice climbing just above the Khare and need to walk couple of hours from where there are good views of the Mera La and the route up the mountain. This will also be a time for practicing few hours Ice climbing and our leader will teach you and instruct about the climbing. After few hrs practicing at glacier, stroll back to camp and final preparation of our equipment and packing of our mountain bags and stay overnight there at tent. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 9: Khare-Mera La ( 5415m./17766ft.) 4 hours climbA very short trek allowing for as much acclimatization time and a day walk as you make your way to Mera Base Camp. We first climb to the crest of the moraine above Khare and then up a steep slope of snow to reach a boulder strewn bowl below the lower tongue of the Mera Glacier. Reaching the pass Mera La allows us to see spectacular views; we then descend 100m (328ft) towards the Hongu side and set up base camp in the moraine below the ice and we stay at Mera Base Camp (5,350m/17,552ft) overnight at tent. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 10: Climb to Mera high camp( 5750m./18865ft.) 4 hours climbMaking your way to Mera High Camp can be hazardous if it has recently snowed, as there are a number of crevasses here. You make your way to the top of the rock band, which is marked by a large cairn. You set up a high camp and from here the views are outstanding, with Everest, Makalu, Cho Oyu and more piercing the skyline. This evening we stay overnight in Mera High Camp at tent. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 11: Summit day and descend to Khare ( 5025m./16486ft.) 8 hours This is a big day, we wake up at 2.30 am around and after a breakfast, the group will put on crampons and rope up before setting out for the summit. From the high camp a well acclimatized party will take 3 - 4 hours to the central summit of Mera peak. If time and conditions permit we may opt to make the traverse to the slightly higher north summit. This excursion adds 2 -3 hours to the day is of a more technical nature than the rest of the climb and the decision as to whether we attempt this will be taken by the trip leader. From the summit can be seen the magnificent views of Mt. Everest (8,848m/29,029ft), Cho-Oyu (8,201m/26,906ft), Lhotse (8,516m/27,940ft), Makalu (8,463m/27,766ft), Kangchenjunga (8,586m/28,169ft), Nuptse (7,855m/25,770ft), Lubuche (6,145m/20,160ft), Chamlang (7,319m/24,013ft) are spectacular from the summit. You then retrace your steps to Khare after the climb with a rest and some hot soup at high camp on the way down. A long but inspirational day! Stay overnight at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 12: A spare Summit attempt dayThis day we use to keep as a spare day, set aside in case we have to postpone the attempt on the peak because of bad weather or because some of the group have not yet acclimatized well enough to make the ascent. If already climb this day you can use for another Ice climbing day or spent one more night at village of Lukla. Day 13: Khare- Gothey ( 3600m./11821ft.) 6 hours walk After a great succeed of the expedition to Mt. Mera, we descend to Hinku valley to Gothey for our overnight stop at lodge. Enjoy the evening with local wines or whatever you want to relax at the lodge and stay overnight there at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 14: Gothey-Tuli Kharka( 4250m./13944ft.) 5 hours walk Today, we again climb up through the lush forest on the west side of the Hinku Valley to Tuli Kharka below the Zatwra La where we are staying overnight at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 15: Tuli Kharka- Lukla via crossing Zatrwa la ( 2800m./9240ft.) 5 hours walkToday, we have a last day for the trek and we start to climb few hundred meters to the Zatrwa La top will be our last climb of the trip. After the top we descending up to Lukla village where we concludes the trekking part and this evening enjoy with crews at the last dinner at the mountain and stay overnight at lodge. Meals included : Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 16: Lukla - Kathmandu ( 35 minutes ) over flightIn the morning, we rise early for breakfast, then walk to the airport. Before boarding the flight to Katmandu, you say goodbye to the porters and also goodbye to the mountains. The plane rolls down the short runway, then soars across the Dudh Kosi River and makes its way back to Katmandu. Transfer to your hotel. Meals included : Breakfast Trip Ends
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 16Days: Mear Peak Climbing — Suggested Itinerary
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Day 1Fly to Lukla and trek to Chutanga ( 3450m./1320ft.) 4 hours walk
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Day 2Acclimatization day
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Day 3Chutang-Tuli Kharka via Zatrwa La pass ( 4250m./13944ft.) 6 hours walk
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Day 4Tuli Kharka- Gothey ( 3600m./11821ft.) 5 hours walk
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Day 5Gothey-Thagnag ( 4350m./14272ft.) 5 hours walk
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Day 6Acclimatization day
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Day 7Thagnag-Khare ( 5025m./16486ft.) 3 hours walk
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Day 8Ice climbing practice near Khare
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Day 9Khare-Mera La ( 5415m./17766ft.) 4 hours climb
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Day 10Climb to Mera high camp( 5750m./18865ft.) 4 hours climb
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Day 11Summit day and descend to Khare ( 5025m./16486ft.) 8 hours
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Day 12A spare Summit attempt day
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Day 13Khare- Gothey ( 3600m./11821ft.) 6 hours walk
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Day 14Gothey-Tuli Kharka( 4250m./13944ft.) 5 hours walk
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Day 15Tuli Kharka- Lukla via crossing Zatrwa la ( 2800m./9240ft.) 5 hours walk
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Day 16Lukla - Kathmandu ( 35 minutes ) over flight
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What's included in your experience
Included
- Cost Includes:
- Tribhuwan International Airport transfer ( Airport + Hotel + Airport )
- All meals during the trekking (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner ) .
- Twin sharing accommodation ( Lodge/Tent) during the trek and climbing.
- All camping gear & Kitchen utensils for Climbing period.
- One experienced, educated, well trained, fluent English speaking, friendly, specialized in Everest region and government authorized trekking trekking guide, cook, climbing guide, staff, required porters ( one porter for two persons) etc.
- All staff's expences as food, salary, insurance, equipments, acommodation etc.
- Both way flight tickets Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu.
- Makalu- Barun National park fee.
- Mera peak climbing permit.
- . First aid medical kit box, company t-shirt, Trip map and complementary climbing/trekking certificate.
- Garbage deposit.
- During the climbing period these are included :
- o A professional climbing guide and his all expenses. ( 1- 4 pax = 1 climbing guide, 6- 10 pax = 2 climbing guides, 10 - 14 pax = 3 climbing guides)
- o Assistant Cook & Transportation : Trekking assistant cook & necessary kitchen helper on the basis of Member and they carry of camping equipment and tent from Khare.
- o Camping Equipment Utensils : EPI Gas, gas stove or fuel stove for Cooking, Fuel or Kerosene oil, Cooking pot, Mattress, Walkee Talkie( Talk Back) etc.
- o Staff salary and Allowance : All our staffs & porters daily wages/equipment/food/clothing etc
- o High Altitude Tents : North Face Dome Tent Space for Two Pax, Wall/Cabin Tent for Dining and Kitchen, etc
- o High Camp Lodging & Fooding Service : Chocolate and Three Meals (Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner) a day for Member And Staff.
- o Drinks & Beverage : Tea with Biscuits and Hot drinking water in climbing Period and Hot washing water in case required.
- o Fixing Gear : Fix rope, main rope, snow bar, ice crew, rock pitons etc
Not included
- Hotel accommodation and meals in Kathmandu.
- Hard and soft table drinks such as tea/coffee, coke, fanta, mineral water, beer, boiled water, battery charge, laundry, desert, bar bill, phone bill etc.
- Personal Travel insurance.
- Personal climbing gears as Climbing boot, Crampons, Ice axe / Ice hammer, Harness, Jammers, Karabiners, Finger eight / ATC guide, Tap sling, etc. (Possible to hire at Khare)
- Tips for guide and staff.( Highly suggested ).
- For above the services, our price is :
- 1 person group : $ 2500 per person (March, April, May) - $ 2425 ( Sept, Oct,Nov),- $ 2370 ( Dec-Feb, June-August)
- 2 persons group : $ 1920 per person (March, April,May)- $ 1795 ( Sept,Oct,Nov),- $ 1740 ( Dec-Feb, June- August)
- 4 persons group : $ 1570 per person ( March,April,May) - $ 1445( Sept, Oct,Nov),- $ 1390 ( Dec-Feb,June-August)
- 6 persons group : $ 1520 per person (March,April,May) - $ 1395( Sept,Oct,Nov), - $ 1340 ( Dec-Feb,June-August)
- 8 persons group : $ 1490 per person ( March,April,May)- $ 1365( Sept,Oct,Nov), - $ 1310( Dec- Feb,June-August)
- 10 persons group : $ 1450 per person ( March,April,May)-$ 1325( Sept,Oct,Nov),- $ 1270 ( Dec-Feb,June-August)
- 12 persons group : $ 1400 per person ( March,April,May)- $ 1275( Sept,Oct,Nov),- $ 1220( Dec-Feb, June-August)
- 14 persons or above group : $ 1350 per person ( March,April,May) - $ 1225( Sept,Oct,Nov), - $ 1170( Dec-Feb,June-August)
Essential trip information
Before you go
Makalu - Barun National Park fee You must obtain Makalu- Barun national park fee to enter this trip. It is determined as the world heritage site by UNESCO. It’s main aim is to protect the wild life, flora and fauna in Makalu- Barun region. We can find there himalayan tahr, ghoral, musk deer, pika (mouse hare), weasel, jackal, black bear, wolf, lynx and snow leopard. 193 species of birds including impeyan pheasant (Danphe), blood pheasant, red-billed chough, yellow-billed chough, snow cock, snow pigeon, Himalayan griffon and lammergeyer birds are found in this national park area. As the vegetation, pine and hemlock forests at lower altitudes, while above 3,500 m, forests are dominated by silver fir, birch, rhododendron and juniper trees . Entrance fees are fixed for SAARC nationals - NPR 1,700 per person per entry, foreigners - NPR. 3,300 per person per entry. Trekkers can apply to obtain it in Nepal tourism board ( NTB) or government registered trekking company as Nepal alternative treks or directly in entry point at Khare. You are required to bring your passport copy, one passport sized pictures and fee in cash. It is included in our package. Mera Peak climbing Permit It is mandatory to climb Mera Peak. The fee structure is fixed by Nepal Governtment and Nepal Mountaineering association ( NMA ). US $ 250 per person during spring season March- May, US $ 125 per person during Autmn Septebmer to November, US $ 70 per person during winter December to February and US $ 70 per perosn during Monsoon June to August. You can obtain the permit through government registered and NMA affiliated Trekking agency as Nepal Alternative Treks with certain formalities. Local Government Tax and TIMS Local government tax and TIMS is not required for this region. Other equipment you can get on hire : · Oxygen cylinder & Max regulater, Gloves, Sun glasses, Sticks, Halmet, High thermos, Hot Bag, Water bottle, Ski Boards, Sleeping bag, Clothing (Water proof trousers & jacket, Down jacket, Socks, etc), Walkee talkee(talk back), Thurya Set light phone and other. Travel Insurance It is a condition of joining any of our trips that be protected against comprehensive expenses potential to incur due to medical issues or accidents (to include air ambulance, helicopter rescue, and treatment costs). Please be noted that we don’t arrange or sell insurance. A relaxed trip is not possible without good travel insurance. In the event of any sickness or injury, the cost of emergency treatment and evacuation is shocking. Therefore, travel insurance is strongly recommended for everyone who signs up with Nepal alternative Trekking. 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Acute mountain sickness is an illness that can affect trekkers at high altitudes, usually above 8,000 feet (2,400 meters). If you follow precautious and our guide then you can avoid it. How do we know if I get AMS ? Your symptoms will also depend on the speed of your climb and how hard you push (exert) yourself. Symptoms are as below: Difficulty sleeping Dizziness or light-headedness Tiredness Headache Loss of appetite Nausea or vomiting Rapid pulse (heart rate) shortness of breath with exertion Cannot walk in a straight line Treatment Rest, Rest , Rest Go down, down, down Diamox Diamox may be given to help you breathe better. It can help reduce mild symptoms. This medicine can make you urinate more often. Make sure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug. This medication works best when taken before reaching a high altitude. Prevention and pre-cautious Keys to preventing acute mountain sickness include: Climb the mountain gradually and slowly Stop for a day or two of rest for every 2,000 feet (600 meters) above 8,000 feet (2,400 meters) Sleep at a lower altitude when possible Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness Drink plenty of fluid – 3 liters per day Avoid alcohol Eat regular meals, high in carbohydrates Sleep well Be well equipped First aid Owing to a sudden change in climate, altitude and other factors, it is obvious that there could arise some alterations in your health. It would be hard to know all aspects of Nepal's health problems.You will be eating and drinking in various outlets. Diarrhea is a common illness that a tourist would be facing. So, it is recommended to drink purified water and eat in clean outlets. Drinking and eating precautions will surely help to take care of many health problems that could arise during the trip. Staying hydrated during the travel, trekking, tours is highly recommended too. If any problem should arise during the trip. Being on good health before leaving for a trip would help you to enjoy your trip to the fullest.Though Nepal alternative treks will be carrying first aid medical kid, you are also suggested to take personal basic first medicines for in case. Meals During our trek, we can enjoy authentic Nepalese food as well the more common international cuisine (Tibetan, Continental, Italian, Indian, etc.) at lodges and our cook will prepare delicious varities of meals during camping and climbing period. There will be served breakfast, lunch and dinner three times along the route on your own choice from MENU . Physical Condition & Experience Requirements Mera peak climbing is hard trip, Suitable for passionate walkers who have the ability to walk at least 5-6 hours a day with a light rucksack. As we will get the highest elevation 6461 meter, you are preferred an excellent health with average physical fitness, have a positive attitude and strong determination, we can accomplish the trip successfully. Exercising and jogging regularly is good idea to enhance our strength and stability. Past climbing experience would be an asset but no mandatory for this trip. Participants with pre-existing medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases should inform Nepal alternative treks before booking the trip.
Accommodation
Accommodation We leave you free to choose hotel in Kathmandu as there will various choices. We will arrange twin share basis room in lodges and two men north face tents during the trip. We provide shared washing room and toilet.
Fitness & eligibility
1
Meeting point
Lukla
What to bring
- Trekking /Climbing Clothing Equipment
- When you select your personal items, keep in mind the number of days you will be trekking, the time of year and the altitude. We advise our clients to bring these items:
- Lightweight walking boots "walked" them in prior to arrival in Nepal to avoid blisters.
- Light weight pants, shorts
- At night -track top, pants
- T-shirts.
- Long sleeve shirt, if susceptible to sunburn.
- Sun hat - sunburn is severe at rarefied altitudes.
- Thick outer wooden socks, thin inner cotton
- Vaseline for feet and crutch.
- Water bottle - 2 liters.
- Sunglasses and strap
- Small headlamp/flashlight /torch
- Personal medical supplies - do not forget ban - aids, elastic bandage
- Sunscreen, sun bock, sun - tan lotion.
- Small daypack - 25 liters.
- Rain jacket - poncho style to cover backpack.
- Small towels
- Warm down fiber filled jacket - 15 c ( You can get on rent at Thamel)
- Sleeping bag to -15c with inner sheet ( You can get on rent at Thamel)
- Thermal underwear, woolen shirts and thick sweaters.
- A pair of gloves
- Snow glasses and strap
- Personal climbing gears
- You can hire below equipment at Khare for climbing purpose :
- Price approx.. US $ 70 per pax
- · Climbing boot.
- . Crampons,
- · Ice axe / Ice hamber,
- · Harness, Jumars,
- · Karabiners,
- · Finger eight / ATC guide,
- · Tap sling,
- · Fix / Main Rope,
- · Snow Bar,
- · Ice Crew / Rock Piktung etc.
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